Exfoliants for acne

ALPHA HYDROXYLIC ACIDS

Alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) are natural biological substances found in sugar cane, fruit, sour milk and old wine. Used in cosmetology to provide better exfoliation. They weaken the connection between the scales of the stratum corneum, accelerating the natural process of their separation.

Due to the active use of ANA acids in cosmetology, they are also called cosmetic acids. In cosmetology, fruit acids are used in the formulation of external factors and as peels.

Fruit acid peeling

The concentration of ANA acid solutions

  1. AHA solutions of low and medium concentration (10–30%) act at the level of the epidermis. They weaken the connection between the corneas, ensuring the exfoliation of the stratum corneum, thereby promoting the growth of new cells and accelerating skin renewal. In addition, they stimulate the synthesis of collagen, elastin and other components of the intercellular substance, reduce the thickness of the stratum corneum, moisturize and rejuvenate the skin, and improve the complexion. These skins can be made regularly (with oily skin – up to 2 times a week).
  2. The more concentrated solutions (30-70%) flake the epidermis and affect the dermis, improving the texture and tone of the skin and providing a strong rejuvenating effect. Such peels are performed several times a year and must be performed by a specialist.
  3. To remove scars and scars using AHA acid at a concentration of 50-70%.
  4. In beauty salons and clinics, use products with a fruit acid concentration of at least 20-30%. In the case of medicines for home use, medicines with an ANA concentration of less than 10% are allowed. If a cosmetic contains less than 5% AHA, it will not have a noticeable effect on the skin and its use is hardly effective.

The acids most often used in ANA cosmetics:

Glycolic acid
Lactic acid
Malic acid
Tartaric (or tartaric acid)
Citric acid

WHY USE ANA?

Features of the use of ANA acids for different skin types:

Oily skin prone to acne

  • Due to its exfoliating effect, ANA cleans the excretory ducts of the sebaceous glands, preventing them from blocking and causing acne.
  • The use of ANA reduces the likelihood of scarring complications of acne.
  • The use of ANA facilitates the penetration of the active ingredients of acne treatment into the skin.

Dry skin

  • Due to the action of ANA, old flakes are effectively removed from the surface of the stratum corneum, which facilitates the penetration of moisturizers into the skin.
  • The uniform peeling provided by ANA significantly softens rough, dry skin and restores the skin’s normal pattern.

Mature skin

  • Due to the AHA peeling effect, the elimination of keratinized layers prevents the penetration of nutrients necessary for the regeneration and protection of mature skin.
  • ANA removes layers of callous scales, roughening the skin pattern and emphasizing wrinkles, and prevents their appearance.
  • Exfoliation of dead keratinized scales stimulates the processes of normal skin cell regeneration.

Discolored skin

  • Thanks to the peeling effect of ANA, the keratinized scales are removed more intensively from the skin surface, which facilitates the penetration of whitening preparations and increases their effectiveness.
  • In addition to the peeling effect, citric and tartaric (tartaric) acids have a whitening effect.
  • By removing the dead, discolored horny scales, ANA provides a gradual reduction in discoloration.

The importance of pH when using ANA acids

The severity of a particular clinical effect depends largely on the actual amount of AHA that achieves its goal. The fact is that once in the skin, AHAs are distributed unevenly and can selectively accumulate in certain places, for example, concentrating in a fluid almost at the receptor.

Studies have shown that when using a cosmetic preparation containing 8% glycolic acid with a pH of 3.7-3.8, 15-20% of ANA actually enters the skin. Overall, penetration is 22-38% of the applied ANA dose. Penetration can be enhanced by incorporating many substances into the formulation, for example glycols (butylene glycol, propylene glycol). It is also strongly dependent on the pH: penetration decreases with increasing pH and becomes minimal at neutral pH. This relationship is very important because the irritant potential of the ANA drug is related to the pH.

It was found that in the pH region of 3.5, the irritant potential of the product drops sharply. Comparing this data with the penetration data allows us to determine the optimal pH value at which the product is effective and completely safe: 3.5-4.0.

Without exception, patients with thin, non-oily skin and minimal pigmentation are more sensitive to AHA than patients with oily and pigmented skin. General advice for those who intend to use ANA cosmetics:

It should start with low concentrations and progressively move to higher concentrations, closely monitoring drug tolerance. Sometimes the irritation does not occur immediately, but after prolonged use of ANA. In that case, you should stop using them for at least a while.

  1. Always protect your skin from going out. Use sunscreen with a sun protection factor of at least 15. Wear a hat and clothes that cover the treated areas.
  2. Always buy cosmetic products on a label that contains all the necessary information: ingredients list, AHA concentration and pH of the preparation, the name of the manufacturer and the address of that company or its distributor. The first two points are required, the third is optional. If you wish, you can call the manufacturer for more detailed information.
  3. Before using one or another ANA product, you should perform a control test: apply a small amount of the drug to the back of your hand and observe the reaction throughout the day.
  4. At the first signs of side effects, stop using ANA immediately. These features include; burning, redness, itching, tingling, pain, bleeding, increased sensitivity to sunlight.


It is not difficult to follow these precautions. However, they will protect against serious problems that may arise from a seemingly harmless and promising cosmetic product.

Facial acids: AHA vs BHA

When looking for your next jar at the cosmetics store, you’ve likely noticed these shortcuts: AHA and BHA. And they wondered who he was and what they were eating.

If you’ve never used facial acid but want to get started and finally tackle AHA and BHA, this post is for you. We will discuss the most popular acids in cosmetics, their types, properties and properties. We will also explain which acid type – AHA or BHA – to choose, depending on your skin type and smoking issues.

Hydroxy acids

AHA and BHA acids belong to the large and friendly family of hydroxy acids (hydroxy acids).

AHA fruit acids

Fruit acids are called alpha hydroxy acids. Briefly – ANA acid (AHA).

The AHA fruit acids were made because many of them live in the fruit. Read more about alpha hydroxy acid habitats here.

Types of fruit acids

In the cosmetics world, AHA acids include:

Bha acid

The AHA acid brothers are BHA acids – beta-hydroxy acids (beta-hydroxy acids).

In the cosmetics world, when talking about BHA acids, one should mention one acid – salicylic acid.

A word to chemists

In the chemical world – in terms of the structure of the molecule – hydroxy acids have a different classification.

Chemically, AHAs include:

Chemically, BHA acids include:

However, malic and citric acids still have the properties of AHA acids. That is why they are classified as fruit acids (AHA) in cosmetics.

Where’s the salicylic acid, you ask? Salicyl is referred to as BHA, but it is chemically incorrect. Salicylic acid and its derivatives (salicylates) do not belong to BHA in the chemical structure and are on a separate shelf.

There are many more hydroxy acids than we have listed. In this post, we will analyze only the most popular. We are not chemists and we will not delve into the structure of molecules. We’ll talk about acids in terms of cosmetics.

  • About AHA acids – glycolic, lactic, almond, tartaric, lemon, apple.
  • About BHA acid – salicylic acid.

Fruit glycolic, lactic and salicylic acids are the most popular and most frequently used in cosmetology. Their effectiveness is confirmed by numerous clinical studies.

AHA: the effect of fruit acids on the skin

Why use fruit acids for the face? See for yourself. AHA acid:

  • tear off;
  • stimulate regeneration;
  • stimulate the synthesis of collagen, elastin, hyaluronic acid and ceramides;
  • moisturize;
  • increase flexibility and flexibility;
  • have an anti-aging effect;
  • lighten;
  • provide antioxidant protection.

And more acids, such as citric, are used in cosmetics as a pH regulator.

VNA has no less cool properties. Salicylicosis:

  • deeply cleanses pores, dissolving fat from the inside;
  • normalizes the activity of the sebaceous glands;
  • reduces oily skin;
  • relieves inflammation;
  • fights germs;
  • prevents acne.

Read more about how acids act on the skin, here.

From the point of view of cosmetology, the main difference between AHA and BHA acids is solubility.

  • ANA – soluble in water. They act on the skin surface, epidermis and high concentrations in the dermis. Do not penetrate the pores.
  • BHA (salicylic) – fat soluble. It works inside the pores, on the surface of the skin, in the epidermis and in high concentrations in the dermis.

The choice of flour

So what to choose from a variety of acids? We get it.

When to choose AHA

  • with old skin;
  • to combat photoaging;
  • for smoothing wrinkles;
  • with age spots and characters;
  • moisturize the skin;
  • with dry skin;
  • with normal skin;
  • with young skin without problems.

Remember: the AHA acid fruits for problem skin are not the best helper. Better to look with salicylic acid.

When to choose BHA acids

  • with oily skin;
  • with problem skin and acne;
  • fight acne;
  • fight black dots;
  • clean forgotten pores (closed blackheads);
  • with enlarged pores;
  • under miles;
  • with rosacea (there are speculations that salicylic acid fights germs on the skin’s surface that cause rosacea, and also soothes inflammation and redness).

This is important! Salicylic acid should not be used if you are allergic to aspirin.

If your skin is aged with wrinkles but oily at the same time, choose salicylic acid. And even better – combine AHA and BHA acid care.

Read this post on the properties of each individual acid.

Summarize

AHA and BHA belong to the hydroxy acid family.

In the cosmetic world, glycolic, lactic, almond, tartaric, malic and citric acids are classified as AHAs. BHA contains a single acid – salicylic acid.

The main difference between AHA and BHA: AHA is water soluble and does not penetrate the pores; BHA (salicylic) is fat soluble and penetrates the pores well.

For discoloration, wrinkles, aging skin, age, dry and normal skin, choose AHA acid.

For oily, problematic and acne-prone skin, choose BHA (salicylic).

Read more about acids:

Are you using acidic products? Share your comments.

In the next post we will talk more about cosmetics with acids – creams, lotions, masks. About the working concentration of acids and how to use them correctly.

Improve your beauty skills, stay with us and be beautiful.

Fruit acids (alpha hydroxy acids, AHA)

ANA (α-hydroxy acids) – one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetic products. They are able to influence the condition of the skin at the molecular, cellular and tissue levels. The most common AHAs are glycol, lactic, lemon, apple, wine. When applied to the skin, ANA exfoliates, moisturizes, has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and also stimulates the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans in the skin.

The exfoliating effect of ANA is explained by their ability to weaken the cohesion of corneocytes in the stratum corneum. In response to increased desquamation, cell division of the basal layer is activated.

AHA skin moisturizing effect by accelerating the renewal of the epidermis. It is known that on the surface of keratinocytes there is a complex of hygroscopic molecules or a natural moisturizing factor – NMF. Most pronounced NMF in young cells. In the old scales, horny NMF is degraded. Accelerated cell division of the basal layer and rapid exfoliation of the horn horns lead to the fact that the content of functionally active NMF increases in the skin.

The synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen is enhanced thanks to the stimulating effect of ANA on skin fibroblasts. Another explanation for the influence of ANA on the synthesis of the intercellular substance of the dermis is the stress theory. Chemical burns of the skin are a strong stress effect, in response to which the skin’s protective systems are activated. This leads to the mobilization of internal resources, increased repair activity of skin cells and increased synthesis of important molecules.


Thus, under the influence of ANA, the epidermis becomes thinner and the dermis thickens. The stratum corneum becomes more elastic and resilient, and fine wrinkles are smoothed out on the skin (see fig.)

ANA drugs are formulated with a variety of skin types in mind. Creams are better suited for dry skin, including elderly patients with pigmented skin. Lotions are recommended for younger patients with oily skin, alcohol-based preparations – for oily skin with blackheads.

Virtually every professional cosmetic has a product line based on ANA. The most commonly used complex of several acids, the action of which complements each other:

Glycolic acid is found in sugarcane, green grapes. In the ANA series, it has the lowest molecular weight, so it easily penetrates the epidermal barrier and has the most pronounced effect. Glycolic acid also has the ability to reduce discoloration.

Lactic acid – found in sour milk, yoghurt, blueberries, passion fruit, maple syrup, apples, tomato juice, grapes. It has a strong moisturizing and peeling effect.

Malic acid is found in many fruits, especially apples and tomatoes. In addition to its peeling effect, it stimulates cells, increasing cellular metabolism.

Tartaric acid – it occurs in free or esterified form in ripe grapes, old wine, oranges. It has a peeling, whitening and moisturizing effect.

Citric acid – found in citrus fruits (lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange). It has the highest molecular weight of any ANA listed. It has a whitening effect on the skin which is strengthened in the presence of tartaric acid. It has antioxidant and bactericidal properties.

Salicylic acid is a hydroxy acid containing a phenolic group. Not AHA, but often used in conjunction with fruit acids to increase exfoliation. Contained in the form of esters in birch bark and evergreen leaves. It has pronounced antiseptic, antifungal and keratolytic properties.

We thank Cosmetics and Medicine for the right to use information from the New Cosmetology book in preparing your course.

Hydroxy acids: the secret of eternal youth or a myth?

Hydroxy acids are called the secret of the eternal youth of the skin. What is it, how does it work and how to make the right choice? We understand the question exactly.

How do acids work?

“Acids probably have the most varied range of functions,” says plastic surgeon Stanley Jacobs. – They soften, thicken, brighten, moisturize, increase elasticity, cleanliness … Perhaps we can say that they do everything that the skin may need. And the coolest thing is that the properties can vary depending on the concentration. At the same time, there is no skin type for which alpha-hydroxy acid agents are contraindicated. So I can say with full responsibility that this is the most effective cosmetic ingredient for which there is a future in which I will be unemployed (laughs). The main thing is to understand how they work and to be able to correctly choose both the acid itself and its concentration. “

“Hydroxy acids dissolve” skin glue “- the mixture of sebum, fat and intercellular substance that keeps the dead skin cells on the surface. With the help of acids, this ‘glue’ breaks down into particles and it is easier to break the stratum corneum, ”explains Haleh Bakshande, a Beverly Hills dermatologist. “That’s why all of us find it useful to regularly use AHA products to more actively renew the top layer of the epidermis – meaning there will be less pigmentation spots, bumps and flaking. In addition, when using products with a medium and high concentration of acids (we will discuss this below), it is possible to obtain an increase in collagen and elastin fibers, which has a very positive effect on the number and depth of wrinkles. “

Acid Alphabet

Let’s start at the beginning: all hydroxy acids are divided into two categories: alpha and beta. Both these and others exist naturally in nature (acids are found in sugar, milk, tree bark, fruits and vegetables). The main difference between the two groups is that alpha acids are water soluble and beta acids are lipid soluble. Therefore, the former are more effective for dry and prone to irritation, and the latter for combination and oily skin. However, this does not mean that your skin type determines the type of acid that can be used. It all depends on the specific task you set for cosmetics.

Among the alpha-hydroxy acids, glycolic, lactic, lemon and almond are the best known. Among the betahydroxy acids – salicylic acid. Let’s figure out which one it can.

1. Salicylic acid (BHA group)

Salicylic acid is comedolytic and keratolytic if expressed in the language of scientists. In other words, it cleans the pores and exfoliates the top layer of the epidermis, opening up oxygen to the young skin cells. It is able to penetrate quite deeply into the pores, destroy the excess activity of the sebaceous glands accumulated there, bring it to the surface and disinfect it, thus preventing the formation of blackheads and acne.

Main advantage: it has no side effects, does not cause irritation and redness (except in cases of individual intolerance), is considered the most effective way to prevent acne and acne, it can be used at any age and for any skin type.

Optimal concentration: from 0.5% to 2% depending on the type of skin (salicylic acid has a drying effect, increases with concentration).

Where to find: Blemish + Age Defense serum from SkinCeuticals; ADVANTAGE fast-acting gel applicator with Clean Jasne; washing gel “ExfoPro” from the “Pure Skin Active” series by Garnier; Brightening Serum Even Skintone Complex by UltraCeuticals; The perfect Estée Lauder face scrub.

2. Glycolic acid (AHA group)

It is extracted from sugar cane, has the smallest particle size, which explains its ability to penetrate quickly into the deepest layers of the skin. Dermatologists considered alpha hydroxy acids to be the most effective of all.

Main advantage: immediate destruction of the stratum corneum barrier, glycolic acid reaches the fibroblast cells, which are responsible for the production of collagen fibers. Stimulating their activity has a direct impact on the reduction of wrinkles, which, like springs, are pushed out by growing fibers. And glycolic acid is friendly to hyaluronic acid, increasing the production of the latter and thus contributing to the hydration of the skin.

Optimal concentration: 5% to 20% (in cosmetics for home use).

Where to find: Normaderm cream from Vichy; Uriage Isoliss fluid; Cleaning the Peaux Mask by Avene; Glico Mask 20 GUAM microsphere mask; Peeling Super-Lift Age Control from the Holy Land.

3. Lactic acid (AHA group)

There is a reason Cleopatra bathed in milk! In addition to its exfoliating properties, lactic acid moisturizes the upper layers of the skin and helps improve the barrier function, thus maintaining an optimal water balance.

Main advantage: thanks to the larger particle size, lactic acid, which is comparable to glycolic acid, acts more carefully, therefore it is suitable for very thin and sensitive skin.

Optimal concentration: 12%.

Where to look: Restorative Exfoliating Night Cream by Académie; Visage Young Peel Soft peeling cream from Nivea; Feminelle intimate hygiene gel from Oriflame.

4. Mandelic acid (AHA group)

Included in wild almonds and cherries. It restores the uniform skin tone, strengthens collagen and elastin fibers and has a toning effect.

Main advantage: almost the only alpha acid that directly affects the skin’s elasticity (the ability to stretch and return to its original state), therefore it is essential when the shape of the face begins to lose its brightness.

Optimal concentration: 30-60% – for treatments in the salon.

Where to look: in beauty salons.

5. Citric acid (AHA group)

Known to us from childhood, with a completely clear origin, this acid has antibacterial properties.

Main advantage: gentle, harmless and does not require excessive sunscreen during use.

Optimal concentration: 20%.

Where to look for: Lush marshmallow oil; Young Care Quick Face Wash Gel Clean Waschgel by Bebe; Organic Neroli Pearl hand cream from the Organic Shop.

An alpha hydroxy acid is

Information on acids has long been collected and recorded. This post is kind of an outline. It turned out great, but there is a lot of useful information. While the overview is general, I will continue to write about the most common acids separately. I hope all my readers will find this information useful.


ANA (α-hydroxy acids) – one of the most popular ingredients in cosmetic products. They are able to influence the condition of the skin at the molecular, cellular and tissue levels. The most common AHAs are glycol, lactic, lemon, apple, wine. When applied to the skin, ANA exfoliates, moisturizes, has anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, and also stimulates the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans in the skin.

The exfoliating effect of ANA is explained by their ability to weaken the cohesion of corneocytes in the stratum corneum. In response to increased desquamation, cell division of the basal layer is activated.

AHA skin moisturizing effect by accelerating the renewal of the epidermis. It is known that on the surface of keratinocytes there is a complex of hygroscopic molecules or a natural moisturizing factor – NMF. Most pronounced NMF in young cells. In the old scales, horny NMF is degraded. Accelerated cell division of the basal layer and rapid exfoliation of the horn horns lead to the fact that the content of functionally active NMF increases in the skin.

The synthesis of glycosaminoglycans and collagen is enhanced thanks to the stimulating effect of ANA on skin fibroblasts. Another explanation for the influence of ANA on the synthesis of the intercellular substance of the dermis is the stress theory. Chemical burns of the skin are a strong stress effect, in response to which the skin’s protective systems are activated. This leads to the mobilization of internal resources, increased repair activity of skin cells and increased synthesis of important molecules.

ANA drugs are formulated with a variety of skin types in mind.

Lotions are recommended for younger patients with oily skin, alcohol-based preparations – for oily skin with blackheads.

Virtually every professional cosmetic has a product line based on ANA. The most commonly used complex of several acids, the action of which complements each other:

Glycolic acid is found in sugarcane, green grapes. In the ANA series, it has the lowest molecular weight, so it easily penetrates the epidermal barrier and has the most pronounced effect. Glycolic acid also has the ability to reduce discoloration.

Lactic acid – found in sour milk, yoghurt, blueberries, passion fruit, maple syrup, apples, tomato juice, grapes. It has a strong moisturizing and peeling effect.

Malic acid is found in many fruits, especially apples and tomatoes. In addition to its peeling effect, it stimulates cells, increasing cellular metabolism.

Tartaric acid – it occurs in free or esterified form in ripe grapes, old wine, oranges. It has a peeling, whitening and moisturizing effect.

Citric acid – found in citrus fruits (lemon, lime, grapefruit, orange). It has the highest molecular weight of any ANA listed. It has a whitening effect on the skin which is strengthened in the presence of tartaric acid. It has antioxidant and bactericidal properties.

Salicylic acid is a hydroxy acid containing a phenolic group. Not AHA, but often used in conjunction with fruit acids to increase exfoliation. Contained in the form of esters in birch bark and evergreen leaves. It has pronounced antiseptic, antifungal and keratolytic properties.

  • antioxidant;
  • anti-inflammatory;
  • exfoliating (alpha-hydroxy acids in the stratum corneum weaken the adhesion of corneocytes);
  • moisturizing (accelerating the renewal of the epidermis);
  • stimulates the synthesis of collagen and glycosaminoglycans (stimulating the effect of ANA on skin fibroblasts);
  • increased flexibility;
  • reducing the depth of wrinkles;
  • masking defects.

Contraindications to the use of AHA acids

Not all skin can withstand such acid execution.

First, make sure you test individual intolerance by applying the product to a small area of ​​skin on the back of your hand. If you develop redness, burning, itching or even pain in this area during the day, stop taking AXA.

You should also not use products containing AHA acids if your skin is hypersensitive, there are small dilated vessels, herpetic eruptions, other fresh injuries, or if your face is tanned or if you have been in the sun for a long time.
Adhere to precautionary measures

Even if you have no contraindications to the use of AXA preparations, some precautions will not hurt.

1. If you have just decided to start using AXA cosmetics, start with small doses, observe how the drug affects the skin and if there are any unpleasant reactions. If everything is in order, the concentration of the drug can be gradually increased. Skin irritation does not necessarily occur immediately, it may occur after prolonged or extended use of AHA products. Then the provocative drug should be put off for a while.
Owners of thin, dry skin are always more sensitive to AHA, as opposed to those of oily skin.

2. As the epidermis becomes thinner under the influence of AHA acids, it is likely that AHA preparations increase the sensitivity to light. There is no exact data supporting this. However, there is no evidence that AXA is completely safe with respect to light sensitivity. Therefore, AHA preparations should be used in conjunction with a sunscreen with a UV factor of at least 15. It is especially necessary after peeling.

3. When buying a cosmetic product, pay attention to the label. It should contain information listing all ingredients, pH and AHA concentration, full name and address of the manufacturer’s company or its distributor. For home use, this ratio will be effective in the percentage of the acid product – 5-15% and pH = 3.5-4.

Study the etiquette at all times, not least when acquiring AXA funds.

How to use AHA and BHA?
Best of all, in the evening, before bedtime.
Depending on the sensitivity and concentration of your skin, you can start by applying the acid once a day or every other day. Make an application starting with 5-10 minutes and then increasing the duration.
After cleansing and firming the skin, apply a small amount of alpha or beta hydroxy acid evenly to dry the skin all over the face with your fingertips.

Always rinse with warm water.
If the selected peeler does not contain any softeners at all or does not soften the skin sufficiently, apply moisturizing cream to dry areas after removing it.
MANDATORY in the morning. apply sunscreen.

An alpha hydroxy acid is

The alpha hydroxide acids (ANA for short) are collectively called “fruits”, just as they were originally found in fruits.

Synonyms: AHA, AHA, alpha hydroxy acids, α-hydroxy acids
Chemical description: Hydroxy acids (AHA) is a class of chemicals consisting of a carboxylic acid substituted with a hydroxide group of adjacent carbon atoms.
Alpha-hydroxy acids include:
Alpha-hydroksyetanowy (alpha-hydroksyetanowy),
citric acid (citric acid),
acid, dihydroxysuccinic acid (dihydroxysuccinic),
gluconolactone (Gluconolactone),
glycolic acid (glycolic acid),
hydroxyacetic acid (hydroxyacetic)
acid hydroxycaprylic acid (hydroxycaprylic acid),
hydroxypropionic acid (hydroxypropionic acid),
hydroxysuccinic acid (hydroxysuccinic acid),
lactic acid (lactic acid),
Malic acid (malic acid / malic acid),
mixed fruit acid (mixed fruit acid),
monohydroxycitic acid (monohydroxy succinic acid),
tartaric acid (tartaric acid).

For reference: there are beta hydroxy acids. The main difference between alpha and beta hydroxide acids is their lipid solubility. Alpha hydroxide acids are only soluble in water, while beta hydroxide acids are fat soluble. This means that beta-hydroxy acids are able to penetrate the skin pores containing sebum and remove dead skin cells that have accumulated inside the pores. Because of this difference, beta-hydroxy acids are best used on oily skin with blackheads or acne. Alpha hydroxide acids are best used on damaged, thin skin in which the appearance of acne is not typical. Often, acids are combined to obtain universal remedies.

Cosmetics use glycolic, lactic, grape, apple and citric acids. Currently, there are synthesized and natural fruit acids.

Method of obtaining natural fruit acids.
Natural AHAs are produced from several plants by extraction. The extracts are mixed in the following ratio:
Blueberry 57%, Sugar Cane 24%, Maple Extract 3%, Orange 8% and Lemon – 8% The
mixed extracts are vacuum distilled to the desired concentration. The product is then filtered to remove any contamination. Since the AHAs thus obtained are completely natural, they will contain a large number of different substances such as cellulose, carbohydrates, proteins, water-soluble vitamins and minerals.
After the end of the process, the material contains the following concentration of alpha-hydroxy acids:
Lactic acid – 28-32%
Glycolic acid – 12-17%
Citric acid – 2-6%
Malic acid – up to 1%
Tartaric acid – up to 1%
Walter Smith (Walter Smith Consultants) published an article comparing the therapeutic value of natural and synthetic AHAs. The parameters to be compared are the level of stimulation and skin damage. Since AHAs are acids, they are potentially traumatic to the skin. However, their skin damage potential is closely related to their ability to stimulate cell renewal. The results of the study show that the activity of natural AHA acids exceeds that of synthetic lactic and glycolic acids. In natural AHA acids, they maximize the ability to stimulate cell renewal, minimizing the potential risk of skin damage. Tests have shown that 10% AHA concentration from natural fruits increases cell renewal by 34% compared to the untreated control solution. In addition, the number of new cells increased by 143%.
As a rule, the following types of fruit acids are used in cosmetology: malic acid from apples, citrus acids from citrus fruits, lactic acid from sour milk, tartaric acid and vegetable glycolic acid from sugar cane, as well as dozens of other alpha-hydroxy acids. Alpha hydroxide acids are acids that mainly have a plasticizing effect on the stratum corneum, influencing the arrangement of the keratin chains and weakening the bonds between the chains, but not directly affecting the level of moisture. AGCs are natural biological substances found in fruit, sugarcane and milk. Sour fruit cosmetics work gradually.

AHA cosmetic properties:

Natural fruit acids promote exfoliation of the superficial keratin scales (chemical peeling), have a strong moisturizing effect and retain water, stimulate the immune system and give the skin renewal, softness and velvety
Hydroxylic acids have a peeling, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and antioxidant effect on the skin, and also stimulate synthesis collagen and glycosaminoglycans (ie, mucopolysaccharide and chitin interaction products, which have high biological activity, are used in wrinkle biocrine to care for skin fading). They have a pronounced anti-aging effect.
The lower the pH of the ANA (ie, the more acidic the acid), the faster it is absorbed through the skin. Those ANAs in which the particle size is reduced by a certain volume are more active and penetrate deeper into the skin.
Molecules of glycolic acid (glycolic acid) are the smallest in size, followed by lactic, grape (pyruvic), malic, tartaric and citric acids.
Glycolic acid shows the strongest keratolytic activity of all AHA acids and thanks to it the skin is immediately softened with AHA acids. It is found in sugarcane, green grapes and is the leader in the AHA series. It received this status because of the smallest molecular weight, which allows it to easily penetrate the stratum corneum and have the most pronounced effect. Glycolic acid is extracted from plant materials, mainly sugar cane. This acid absorbs water easily. Able to accelerate the exfoliation of dead skin cells. Glycolic acid is mainly used in professional cosmetics in preparations for deep cleansing the skin, reducing wrinkles and removing age spots. May cause allergic reactions.
Lactic acid is a highly active humectant. Research has shown that it increases the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans, has a better moisturizing ability due to its excellent compatibility with the skin compared to other moisturizing substances. Dissolves in water, acetone. The most important metabolic product of living organisms. Prepared from whey. Lactic acid is found in fermented milk products, berries, maple syrup. In addition to exfoliating, it also has an active moisturizing effect, stimulates the synthesis of ceramides. It affects
processes of skin regeneration and renewal, exfoliation of dead epidermis cells. As a moisturizing ingredient, lactic acid is often used in combination with urea. The introduction of lactic acid into the stratum corneum increases its elasticity, and lactic acid has a more pronounced plasticizing effect on the skin than its salt, sodium lactate. The incorporation of sodium lactate into emulsion systems delays the rate of water evaporation from the skin surface. Used in cleansing and regenerating creams and lotions, as well as a moisturizing and whitening ingredient. It is used in food production and pharmacology.
Citric acid stimulates collagen synthesis, it dissolves in water and ethanol. Citric acid is often found in nature. Obtained from natural plant sources (lemons, lingonberries, etc.) or by fermentation from sugar. Used in cosmetic preparations as a preservative, thinner, pH modifier, appropriate skin pH. Rendering for skin tightening, cleansing
and whitening effect. Introduced in cleansing creams, epilators, hair rinses, hair dyes, spot creams
Tartaric acid Contained in free or esterified form in ripe grapes, old wine, oranges.
It has a peeling, whitening and moisturizing effect. Tartaric acid is the most powerful antioxidant and biostimulant found in ripe grapes and old wine. Obtained from wine waste. It has a cleansing and whitening effect. It is used in bath products, epilators, hair rinses, etc. Tartaric acid is one of the most common AHA acids.
Malic acid Colorless hygroscopic crystals, well soluble in water and ethanol. First distinguished by the Swedish chemist Carl Wilhelm Scheele in 1785 from unripe apples. Malic acid salts and anions are malates. Natural acyclic carboxylic acid from the acyclic series, which is an intermediate product of metabolism in the human body (participates in the tricarboxylic acid cycle). Included, for example, in unripe apples, grapes, mountain ash, barberry, raspberry etc. Plants of tobacco and tobacco contain it in the form of nicotine salt. The use in cosmetics depends on the antioxidant, cleansing, moisturizing, anti-inflammatory and slightly astringent properties. It is introduced into finished products in the form of concentrates or extracts from apple and cherry pulp, blueberries and other plant materials. Malic acid increases cellular metabolism.
Properties of succinic acid: preventing premature aging of the skin of the face and neck, elimination of acne, scars and scars on the face, normalization of skin turgor and elasticity, enrichment of cells with oxygen and elimination of toxins, elimination of puffiness, pigment spots and vascular networks. Succinic acid not only regulates processes, but also restores previously lost functions, restores life processes in sluggish and dying tissues. Healthy cells don’t need it, but the acid undoubtedly finds the diseased cell, penetrates it, and supports it.

Cosmetic use

– Dry skin. Daily application of ANA to the skin in the form of lotions or creams can improve dry skin condition.
– Skin with signs of photoaging. Daily application of ANA to the skin in the form of lotions or creams reduces fine lines and destroys other signs of aging.
– Acne Applying ANA to acne-affected skin can be effective.
– Atrophic acne scars (scars). The use of glycolic acid (glycolic acid) from the AHA group in the form of peels or lotions can improve the appearance of atrophic acne scars.
– Wrinkled skin. Applying ANA to the skin can strengthen the skin and reduce wrinkles.

Alpha acid hydroxide and chemical peels

ANA in various concentrations is used in chemical peels. Concentration depends on who is using the ingredient. Cosmetic products containing less than 10% AHA acids are sold for home use, experienced cosmetologists can use products with an acid concentration of 20-30%. Chemical peels give the results of such microdermabrasion – they remove fine wrinkles and ensure skin smoothness after 1-3 applications. However, such procedures should be repeated every 3-6 months to maintain the effect. Doctors – cosmetologists can use AHA in a concentration of 50% -70%. This treatment also removes wrinkles and removes superficial scars, but the effect lasts longer than 2 to 5 years.
The higher the acid concentration in chemical peels, the greater the damage to the skin. At a concentration of 50% – 70% c, the patient should be ready for severe reddening of the skin, a “burning” sensation that can last from 1 to 4 weeks

Basic rules for using AHA cosmetics in accordance with FDA guidelines.

– It is better to use one product containing alpha hydroxide in your skincare and then choose another skincare that does not contain AHA to reduce the risk of skin damage.
– The best combination to use AHAs is with humidifiers.
– Washable AHA cleansers are not very effective as alpha hydroxy acids must be absorbed through the skin in order to function
– There are currently no effective products combining alpha hydroxy acids and sunscreens because sunscreen ingredients are unstable at the pH level required for AHA effectiveness .
– When using AHA, use sunscreen. At the same time, sunscreens must have an SPF of at least 15 for protection against UVB radiation and contain avobenzone (avobenzone), titanium dioxide (titanium dioxide) or zinc oxide for protection against UVA.
– AHAs work best at concentrations of 5% to 8% at a pH of 3 to 4.
– Unfortunately, cosmetic manufacturers are not required to provide information on the concentration of the substance on the product label. As a general rule, if AHAs are listed 2 or 3 on the ingredients list, they probably are in sufficient concentration.

In 1997, the Cosmetics Ingredient Observation Group (financed by the Cosmetology and Toiletries Manufacturers Association (CTFA)) concluded that AHA was glycolic acid and lactic acid, and their chemical derivatives safe for use under the following conditions :

• The concentration of AHA acids is less than 10%
• The acidity of the finished product with AHA acids is greater than pH 3.5
• The finished cream formula contains substances that protect the skin from increased sensitivity to light, or on the packaging clearly indicates the need to use a sunscreen .
• In the case of professional products with AHA acids, preparations with a concentration of glycolic and lactic acids below 30% and a pH of 3.0 or higher, intended only for short exposure and washing from the face, are considered safe. At the same time, it is necessary to use sunscreen daily.
In the list of safe ingredients of the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Panel, valid for 2007, AHA alpha-hydroxy acids assigned to the SQ category – safe with qualifications (safe with reservation). That is, safe under the above conditions.

Cosmetics with hydroxy acids: we choose ANA and VNA correctly

One of the most famous, wise and strong women in the world once said: “There are no ugly women, they are lazy.” Coco Chanel knew exactly what she was talking about, because her words now take on a special meaning. The beauty market is so crowded with loads of goods and offers that every woman can choose the remedies and treatments that suit her skin type, mood and wallet.

And one of the most important tasks of today’s cosmetologists is to help each patient find the right tools. In this article, estet-portal.com talks about how to choose the right hydroxy acid cosmetics for each patient.

Hydroxy acids in modern cosmetology: instructions for use

From the biochemical point of view, hydroxy acids are derivatives of carboxylic acids whose molecule, in addition to the carboxyl group, contains one or more hydroxyl groups.

The widespread use of hydroxy acids in cosmetology is due to their effective action not only on the surface, but also on the deeper layers of the skin.

Among the many types of these acids, only some alpha and beta hydroxy acids are widely used in cosmetology. They have different effects on the skin, so a cosmetologist needs to understand what kind of acid should be in the composition of a cosmetic product in order to most effectively eliminate the problem of a particular patient.

Hydroxy acids:

  • what is the difference between alpha and beta hydroxy acids;
  • how different types of hydroxy acids affect the skin;
  • how to choose the right products, including hydroxy acids.

What is the difference between alpha and beta hydroxy acids

Among the many hydroxy acids, alpha-hydroxy acids (fruit, AHA acids) and beta-hydroxy acids (BHA acids) are the most common in cosmetology. In the world of cosmetology, fruits or AHAs include malic, lactic, glycolic, almond, tartaric and citric acids. The most common BHA acid in cosmetology is salicylic acid.

The main difference between AHA and BHA is their solubility: alpha-hydroxy acids are water-soluble so they do not penetrate the pores, act on the skin surface and in high concentrations in the dermis, and beta-hydroxy acids are fat soluble, can act inside the pores and penetrate the skin.

What effect do different types of hydroxy acids have on the skin?

Alpha and beta hydroxy acids have different effects on the patient’s skin.

The main activities of fruit acids include:

  • peeling;
  • stimulation of the synthesis of elastin, collagen, ceramides and hyaluronic acid;
  • stimulation of regenerative processes;
  • moisturizing;
  • lighting;
  • antioxidant protection;
  • anti-aging effect.

In turn, beta-hydroxy acids are capable of:

  • deeply clean the pores by dissolving fat;
  • reduce oily skin;
  • normalize the sebaceous glands;
  • fight microbes and eliminate inflammatory processes;
  • prevent the occurrence of acne.

How to Choose the Right Products, Including Hydroxy Acids

Cosmetics containing ANA or BHA hydroxy acids should be selected based on the specific skin problems encountered by the patient. AHAs are suitable for patients with dry or normal skin, healthy young skin without any particular defects or aging skin that needs measures to combat photoaging, wrinkles or pigmentation. BHA acids are optimally suited to patients with oily and problem skin, to combat acne, black spots, clogged and enlarged pores, rosacea and mils.

If the patient’s skin is oily but shows signs of aging such as wrinkles or discoloration, ANA and BHA should be combined as part of skincare.

The patient will be able to judge the noticeable effect after using hydroxy acid products fairly quickly and will last when used correctly for a long time

Leave a Comment

Your email address will not be published.